Epipremnum Pinnatum Variegata Albo
The Epipremnum Pinnatum Variegata Albo is the white variegated version of Epipremnum Pinnatum. The Epipremnum Pinnatum Albo Variegata can grow rather huge if they are given something to climb on (eg. a tree, a wooden pole etc). Their leaves will eventually fenestrate as they mature and grow bigger leaves. At this point in time, this plant is typically rare and is pretty sought after.
This plant does well in fast draining soil and typical potting mixes. Add chunks of pine bark, coco chips, perlite, pumice or zeolite, etc., with soil to make sure it is well-drained enough for the roots to breathe. There are nurseries that sell ready-to-use aroid mixes which will work just as well too.
As I said this with all my other articles. if you are thinking of keeping the plant indoors; it will be better to use a soil-less substrate. Stuff like coconut chip/husk/fiber/peat will decompose and break down over time as it comes into contact with water. This process can attract pests to nest on them which can be undesirable especially in an indoor setting.
Therefore, for planting indoors, I would simply recommend to just mix 50% pumice with either 50% peat moss, vermiculite or vermicast or all together. Of course, you can also use chunky stuff such as leca balls or zeolite rocks in place of pumice. I will usually judge the percentage of the mix based on how well-drained I want the substrate to be and also the size of the pot I am using.
Do add a stick, pole or something next to it for to climb on when it gets bigger and as aerial roots starts to develop. One thing to note though; if the aerial roots does not cling or hold onto any support where it could feed some water or nutrients, then expect runners. Runners in this case means that the stem will grow from node to node with aerials roots with no new leaf in sight. This process can continue for a period of time till it decides to push out a new leaf or when it clings on to some support. So it is important if you want your leaves to grow bigger, get the aerial roots to “bite” into a support.
Water the plant frequently but make sure not to overwater and/or flood the roots. Let the soil have enough time to dry before each session. Use the moisture meter if possible to gauge the best way to determine the amount of moisture in the soil. Alternatively, you can feel the texture of the soil with your fingers to make sure that the top level of the soil is dry. Only then you can water the plant again. If the soil gets water-clogged, the roots will suffocate and rot.
If you give this plant the right growing conditions, it will grow rather quickly, which in turn will require shorter intervals between watering. So do check the moisture level of the soil regularly. It is never recommended for the roots to stay dry for too long or it will start showing dry edges or even burn marks on the white parts of the leaves. Try to keep a regular watering schedule.
Generally, I would wait for the wet soil to dry off between 4-7 days before I start watering my plants again. If the soil does not dry up much or at all in about a week, the risk of root rot increases. For such cases, it is best to re-evaluate the potting substrate it is using.
As this is a white variegated plant, it will prefer bright indirect light to keep pushing out beautiful variegated leaves. It can withstand short periods of morning sun but avoid giving it harsh afternoon sunlight as it will burn it’s variegation sections on the leaves. Grow lights will work fine for them too.
It should do well in places where humidity is around 50% and above. Their leaves will unfurl just well between this range.
You can always increase humidity indoors with the following:
i) Place and use a humidifier near the plant.
ii) Wrap a wet towel around the base of the pot to increase the humidity.
iii) Mist the plant lightly every morning
The growth rate of this species depends largely on the conditions it is growing in. Generally, if you keep the plant happy with good lighting, support, free from pest, proper watering schedule and scheduled fertilizing, it will reward you with some moderate to quick growth.
This species contains a harmful substance and is toxic to humans and animals. They are not to be ingested at any cost. If ingested, it can cause some severe illnesses.
Use organic fertilizer like worm castings and/or foliage type slow-release fertilizers should do well. Since this plant is grown for its foliage, you will want a fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen. The nitrogen helps to produce healthy leaves and help them to expand.
Pests like aphids, mealybugs, spider mites and scales can attack the plant. The best way to keep pests away is to keep the plant healthy. In any case, if the leaves were to be attacked by the above mentioned pests, one of the recommended methods will be to use neem oil as a periodic control to eliminate them. Spraying it down and wiping the leaves with diluted neem oil every few days will eliminate them from the foliage instantly. Follow up with watering the soil with diluted neem oil which will further clear up the pests and their eggs that are residing in the soil. Doing this can also send neem oil into the leaf’s vascular system and when the sucking pest feeds on them, it will be killed and thus, preventing an infestation of sorts. Watering with neem oil can be done every month as periodic prevention.
The best way to propagate these plants is by cutting the stem. You should cut about 1-2 inches below a node with aerial roots. In this way, with the aerial roots, the cutting can root much faster in water or its new media.
Do remember to sterilize your cutting tool before making the cut to prevent bacterial infection.
If the cutting has aerial roots longer then 1-2 inches, you can either pot it straight into soil, spaghnum moss, leca, perlite, water, etc. Keep whatever media or substrate you use moist but do not make it overly wet. If you decide to grow it in water, once you notice additional 2-3 inches of root growth, you can pot it straight into soil
It will take about 1-3 weeks for it to be well rooted and maybe produce a new leaf.
However, if you intend to make lots of cuttings, you could let the plant grow “runners” and then cut all the individual nodes and then perform wet stick propagation.
The information above is based on my experience with growing the Philodendron Brule Marx Variegated. If you have any questions for me regarding this plant, please leave them at the comments section below.
Thanks for reading